There are various reasons for a property owner to test water. Suggest the following to your clients: 
1. Water should be tested if you’re thinking of purchasing a home and want to assess the quality of the water supply. It is also important to know the total coliform bacteria, lead, iron, nitrate, manganese, sodium chloride and arsenic in the water. Hardness and ph level should also be determined before making a purchase. 
2. Test water if it has an undesirable taste or smell. This could indicate the presence of hydrogen sulfide, pH, copper, lead, iron or chloride. 
3. If the pipes on a home show signs of corrosion, test the water for lead, iron manganese and copper.  
4. A test for hardness is needed if water leaves soap scum or scaly residue and is ineffective in cleaning. 
5. If contamination is suspected, one should test for fecal coliform bacteria, nitrate, chloride and detergents.

6. If using well water from a well which is located near an operational or abandoned gas station or buried fuel tanks, test for fuel components of volatile organic compounds. Test for the same if your water smells like fuel oil or gasoline. 
7. If the well is in an area of intensive agricultural use, testing for pesticides, coliform bacteria, nitrates and pH is appropriate. 
8. Test for chlorides, sodium and total dissolved solids if a well is located near seawater, a roadsalt storage site, or a heavily salted roadway and the water is salty to the taste.

• Two hole receptacles – These receptacles were not designed to be grounded (though often the cover plate screw is). Some older ones aren’t able to be polarized as well. Modern systems, especially those serving electronic equipment, are usually grounded and polarized. Three hole polarized receptacles can often be adapted to the older two hole systems as long as a ground conductor exists. This work should be done by a professional. 
• No ground fault interrupts – If a system was installed after 1978, it probably includes especially sensitive circuit breakers that are in potential wet or damp locations, such as the bathroom and garage. These breakers trip quickly whenever more than five milliamps of leakage to the ground has been detected. A professional electrician can retrofit individual devices if the system predates 1978.