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From
the desk of . . .
Arthur
S. Lazerow
New Construction Inspections
New
construction home inspections continue to be a significant
part of my personal home inspection work load.
In most cases, in spite of the builders being extremely busy
and delivery delays caused by the unavailability of
skilled workmen, the final quality of the
homes I am inspecting has been quite high. I suspect this
results from superintendents knowing a professional inspector
will be watching their work.
The list of new home deficiencies I have observed recently,
however, shows a lack of attention by some construction
superintendents:
A. Missing or inadequate exterior caulk.
B. Unpainted steel lentils.
C. Incorrect appliance models.
D. Oversized electric breakers for
size of circuit wires.
E. Incomplete plumbing installation, such as failure to
connect the fire sprinkler piped to the water service or
failure to connect the humidifier to any water source.
F. Physical contact by differing metals, such as the intersection
of copper pipes and steel ducts, establishing galvanic electric
currents that deteriorate pipes and ducts.
As I have written in the
past, it is important that new home
buyers arrange for an independent third-party home
inspector to make two inspections — a pre-drywall rough-in
inspection and the pre-settlement inspection
upon construction completion. After the final
inspection, numerous clients have commented to
me how valuable these inspections were to the success of
their new home purchase experience. All
Alban home inspectors have significant new home and
renovation experience, so feel confident arranging for
a new construction inspection by an Alban home
inspector.
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It’s
Not The Heat,
It’s
The ...
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... humidity that causes condensation —
when it (humidity) is
high and/or air temperature
is low.
The main thought to remember is "warm air
has more ability to hold moisture than cold
air." "Moisture" is water in all forms:
vapor, liquid, ice, or
frost. Air always has some
moisture in vapor form. Moisture vapor in outside air
comes from evaporation
of water from
lakes, rivers, and
oceans. Cooling
the air raises
the humidity
and heating the
air lowers the
humidity, assuming
moisture is not
added or removed.
Relative humidity
(RH) is the percentage of water vapor
present in the air, relative to the maximum
amount of moisture the air can hold
at that temperature.
Key: 0% RHM = Dry air, 100% RH = Saturated
air
The dew point is the point at which moisture
vapor turns to liquid.
A mid-range (40-60%) of relative humidity is
best for health purposes. High humidity can lead to
condensation and fungus
growth,
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resulting
in poor air quality
and health problems. Low humidity
may lead to respiratory infections, dryness,
and irritation of the eyes, nose,
throat, lungs, and skin.
Prevention or Control of
Moisture/Condensation
Prevention or control
of moisture in
the air may be accomplished
by one or more of the following:
1. In
the winter months,
develop adequate
ventilation in
the attic or install
a de-humidistat control
with a fan in the
attic.
2. Install
vapor barriers
and retarders on the warm side walls,
ceilings, and floors.
3. Envelop
the living space.
4. Increase
insulation in the ceiling of the top
floor living space.
5. Use
double or triple glass and wood frame
windows.
Continued
on next page.
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